In the traditional coffee-growing districts of Kodagu, Chikkamagaluru and Hassan in Karnataka, growers say the farming calendar no longer follows memory. Jacob Mammen, managing director of Badra Estates, said climate change was already affecting the cultivation of traditional coffee varieties such as Arabica and Robusta. The biggest challenge, he explained, comes from increasingly unpredictable weather patterns, particularly the timing and intensity of rainfall.The flowering of coffee plants depends on very specific rainfall patterns. A rainfall triggers flowering, and a “backup shower” about two weeks later helps the flowers bloom properly. However, in recent years, growers have faced an unstable situation – either too much rain, too little rain, or it doesn’t come at the right time. This disrupts the flowering cycle and directly affects yields.Extreme weather events are also becoming more frequent. Jacob noted that last year’s hail destroyed coffee flowers on the estate, causing crop failure in the affected areas. Unseasonal rainfall can also cause harvest and quality problems. “Early showers, sometimes as early as January, can cause new flowers to bloom while ripe cherries are still on the plants. When this happens, pickers must stop picking to avoid damaging the flowers. At the same time, rain can also cause ripe cherries to deteriorate or dry out, affecting the quality of coffee beans. “new beans on the blockAgainst this backdrop, Jacobs said, there is growing interest in climate-adapted varieties such as Liberica coffee. Liberia has traditionally been considered a fence crop rather than grown as a primary plantation species. In Baddra it is still grown primarily as “tree coffee”, grown along borders, rather than as a substitute for Arabica or Robusta in the field.However, the estate is beginning to reconsider this approach.Liberian coffee is considered more climate resilient than other major coffee varieties because it can tolerate higher temperatures. These plants develop deep and extensive root systems that allow them to obtain water from deeper layers of soil, helping them survive drought conditions. They also show greater resistance to diseases such as coffee leaf rust, which has historically devastated many coffee plantations.Liberian trees are also larger and sturdier, able to withstand heavy rainfall, storms and changing weather patterns. Liberica’s ability to grow in poor soils and adapt to changing environmental conditions makes it a promising climate-resilient coffee variety as global warming increasingly threatens traditional cultivation.Market demand is another factor driving renewed interest in Liberia. Jacob said buyers in India and overseas are increasingly curious about the variety because it has a unique fruity and sweet aroma that sets it apart from Arabica and Robusta.However, Liberia still faces output-related challenges. Currently, its production is significantly lower than Arabica or Robusta. This is partly because it is still grown primarily as a tree crop alongside fences rather than as a fully managed plantation species.SearchExcelsaAnother “tree coffee” variety, Excelsa, is also widely considered to be climate resilient. Since it shares many characteristics of Liberian coffee, the jury is still out on whether it is a Liberian coffee variety. Excelsa is more tolerant of high temperatures, irregular rainfall and humid tropical conditions than Arabica coffee, which is more sensitive to climate change.Adhi Savla, senior manager of coffee community at Blue Tokai, said they source Excelsa from the South Indian Coffee Corporation (SICC) but it is currently sold out. “The quantities are very small because they are experimental batches,” he said. “Excelsa is heavier-bodied with a unique cola flavor, which creates a unique experience for coffee drinkers.”SICC has been exporting Excelsa since 2017. Akshay Dashrath, co-founder of SICC and a fifth-generation coffee farmer, said sometimes the problem is not just heat, but too much moisture. “For example, in 2024, our farm received 65 inches of rain. This is historically normal, but what is unusual is that it reaches 33 inches in one month. These conditions are intolerable for Arabica and Robusta. Excelsa does well in such conditions because it is a tree with deep roots.Their Mooleh Manay Estate in Coorg produces about three tonnes of clean Excelsa every year.flower pot adjustmentArvind Rao, former president of the Karnataka Growers Association, pointed out that most growers have not really tried climate-adaptive varieties as the current supply is not enough, even from the Coffee Board. But they are taking other steps to adjust. “We are conserving water, building water storage tanks, designing irrigation systems so that during flowering we can irrigate and mitigate drought to some extent,” Rao explained.The sunshade adjustment has also changed. “We maintain slightly higher shade to keep temperatures lower. Of course, this reduces crop yields to some extent, but helps control heat stress.” Soil health also became central to discussions, with the incorporation of compost and organic matter being used to improve water retention.Resilience alone is not enoughbinnie Industry observer and processing expert Varghese said some existing varieties are still performing well. “According to my experience in Karnataka and tamil nadu“S795 is still going strong,” Binny said. S795 is an Arabica coffee variety known for its high yields, leaf rust resistance and flavor profiles with mocha or chocolate notes.“It’s not fashionable, but it’s genetically stable and relatively adapted to mid-altitudes. Through rigorous picking and controlled fermentation, it produces a very clean coffee with structured acidity and good sweetness. “Binny added that selection No. 9 remains important. Selection 9 was developed in India by crossing Tafarikela, an Ethiopian Arabica coffee, with Hibrido-de Timor, a rust-resistant hybrid.Data to track climate risksThe climate conversation about coffee estates has also changed. “Earlier, the climate conversation was cautious. Now, they are data-driven and experience-based. Young producers are using the model. ” said Binney. Farmers now track irregular flower showers, temperature spikes during fruit development and unexpected rainfall during drying – all of which can affect coffee bean density and the predictability of fermentation.“Interestingly, adaptation is no longer seen as just ‘growing new varieties,'” Binney noted. “It’s a combination of thinking — canopy management, spacing, moisture management, selective picking, even adjusting processing to handle inconsistent ripeness.”In the hills of Karnataka, planters are waking up and smelling coffee’s future.
