Morocco’s oldest and smelliest leather manufacturing site

In the old town of Medina Fez, you smell the scent before you see the view. Narrow passages wind through the medina, with storefronts packed under faded wooden balconies that suddenly open into the circular dyeing pits of the Chouara tannery. Workers moved between stone jars, carrying hides blackened by water, lime and natural pigments, just as generations before them had done. According to Morocco World News, the tannery is believed to be one of the oldest surviving leather workshops in Morocco and remains closely linked to the craft traditions of Fez itself. Despite changing tourism, restoration efforts and trade patterns, the site remains a working tannery rather than a well-preserved monument.

Inside Morocco’s smelliest leather tannery

The tannery is located deep in the medieval medina of Fes, where streets were built centuries before the advent of the automobile. Most people arrive at the Chouara Tannery almost by accident. A narrow staircase at the back of the leather shop, above hanging bags, leads to a crowded patio where visitors press mint leaves under their noses before approaching the vats.Viewed from above, the stone pits appear to be oddly organized circles and rectangles filled with white lime, dark brown liquid, crimson and ocher dyes. According to Morocco World News, the colors change based on natural dyes and the seasons. Down below, the work remains slow and physical. The soaking, scraping, softening and dyeing of the hides is done entirely by hand, with workers standing in ankle-deep pits for hours at a time.Long before the tannery existed, the smell had spread to the surrounding alleys. In the early stages of leather preparation, raw animal hides, lime, salt and pigeon dung are still used, creating the strong smell that the place is famous for. Shopkeepers near the entrance often offer visitors fresh mint sprigs to mask the smell, although after a while the smell becomes part of the atmosphere surrounding the tannery. Nothing is hidden or cleared for visitors. The leather making process continues within the old medina, as it has for generations.

How Chouara Tannery shaped the leather trade in Fes

Long before the arrival of tourism, leather helped shape Fes. During the Middle Ages, Moroccan leather traveled across Europe, North Africa and parts of the Middle East via trade routes connected to cities. Fez’s craftsmen came to be associated with fine leather goods, especially dyed goatskin and sheepskin used for slippers, bags, book covers and saddles.According to Morocco World News, the tannery area is developing close to the waterway that runs through the medina. Water remains vital for cleaning leather and moving waste out of the workshop. Even now, the area remains inseparable from the streets surrounding the old town, where leather shops still occupy entire alleyways.Many families around Choara have been involved in leather production for generations. Some directly manage workshops, while others sell finished products nearby. Visitors often enter directly from the observation deck into the adjoining store, which is packed with floor-to-ceiling jackets, belts, cushions and handbags.

Color and chaos inside Chouara Tannery

The photo only brought the place into color, although it felt different standing there. The terrace was crowded and noisy. Workers yelled over vats, tour guides negotiated with tourists at the foot of the stairs, and shopkeepers motioned to those inside for tea or leather displays.Mornings tend to be quieter, especially before the hot weather sets in in the Medina. By the afternoon, the smell became overpowering and the terraces were crowded with hordes of tourists. Mint sprigs are usually handed out at the entrance, although after a few minutes, most people no longer notice the smell at all.There’s also a strange contrast between exhaustion and routine. This kind of labor may seem like physical torture, but the movements below seem to have been deeply practiced and are almost automatic. Workers walk among the vats carrying hides on their shoulders, while tourists photograph them from balconies just meters away.

Visit the Chouara Tannery: What Travelers Should Know

The tannery is located within the old medina of Fez, which means it is not directly accessible by car. Most travelers enter through the Bab Bou Jeloud area and continue walking through the market streets. Local tour guides are common, but many visitors simply follow the signs to the tannery terrace.It is normal to get lost in the medina. Streets narrow unexpectedly, signs disappear, and directions often involve passing landmarks rather than road names. The walk itself becomes part of the experience, passing spice stalls, textile workshops and crowded alleyways before the tannery emerges behind storefronts.Those staying outside the medina usually take a taxi to one of the gates and walk from there. Comfortable shoes help more than anything else. The stone alley is uneven and often overcrowded throughout the day.

Explore the streets around Chouara Tannery